Traditional Textile Information
Yamagata Prefecture [Safflower Dye]
Safflower dyeing is a traditional dyeing technique representative of Yamagata Prefecture, and the Mogami region has been known as a production area for "Mogami safflower" since the Edo period. Red and yellow pigments are extracted from safflower petals and used to dye silk and other materials in vivid red and soft yellow. The red color, in particular, was used for wedding attire and high-ranking garments and was revered as a "color that wards off evil" and a "color of celebration." In Yamagata, the techniques from cultivation to dyeing have been passed down through generations, and even today, you can enjoy its beautiful colors at workshops and experience facilities.
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Gunma Prefecture [Kiryu Textile]
Kiryu-ori is a traditional textile produced mainly in Kiryu City, Gunma Prefecture, and is known for its high level of skill, often referred to as "Nishijin in the west, Kiryu in the east." Its origins date back more than a thousand years, and during the Edo period, it developed as a textile production center for the shogunate. It produces a wide variety of textiles, including brocade, satin, and gold brocade, and the introduction of jacquard looms made it possible to express complex patterns. Made primarily from silk, it has a beautiful luster and suppleness and is widely used for kimonos, obi sashes, and interior fabrics.
Hachijo Island, Tokyo [Kihachijo]
Kihachijo is a traditional silk fabric woven on Hachijo Island in Tokyo, characterized by its vibrant yellow, deep brown, and black base colors. The yellow is dyed from the Japanese knotweed that grows naturally on the island, the brown from the Japanese laurel, and the black from the bark of the chinquapin and camphor trees; all are plant-based dyes. During the Edo period, it gained a reputation for its high-quality silk and beautiful colors, and was highly valued as formal wear for samurai and townspeople. Lightweight, supple, and comfortable to wear, the island's artisans continue to uphold the tradition, handling everything from yarn dyeing to hand weaving.
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Kyoto Prefecture [Nishijin Weaving]
Nishijin-ori is a high-quality silk textile produced primarily in the Nishijin area of Kita Ward, Kyoto City, with a history spanning over a thousand years. Using a variety of colored threads and gold and silver threads, it weaves magnificent patterns using more than a dozen techniques, including brocade, tapestry, satin, and karakuri weaving. During the Muromachi period, artisans gathered in Nishijin during the Onin War and honed their skills, gaining nationwide fame. It is mainly used for obi sashes, Noh costumes, and festival attire, and is characterized by its beautiful luster and intricate patterns. Even today, the division of labor is maintained, and textiles that blend tradition and creativity are produced.
Kyoto Prefecture [Hon-tsuzure weaving using fingernails]
Tsumekaki Hon-tsuzure-ori is considered the most prestigious hand-weaving technique within Nishijin weaving, and is mainly used for high-end obi sashes. The weaver wears a bamboo comb on their finger and uses their fingertips to gather the warp threads and weave the weft threads densely, creating picturesque patterns. Because the pattern is created using only the weft threads, the same pattern appears on both sides, and it is characterized by its three-dimensional and substantial texture. Production requires advanced skills and a long time, and sometimes only a few centimeters can be completed in a day. Due to its rarity and beauty, it is also highly valued as a work of art and craft.
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Kyoto Prefecture [Kyoto Shibori]
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Kyo-shibori is a general term for tie-dyeing techniques that developed in Kyoto and have been passed down through generations alongside court culture since the Heian period. Various methods are used to resist dyeing, such as tying, sewing, and sandwiching the fabric between boards, creating a contrast between the patterned and dyed areas. Among these, "Kanoko Shibori" and "Tsujigahana" are characterized by their delicate and vibrant patterns. Works featuring the vivid colors of Kyoto on silk fabrics are used for kimonos and obi sashes, exuding an elegant and refined texture. It is a dyeing craft where the skills of experienced artisans still thrive today.
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Yamaguchi Prefecture (Yanai-jima)
Yanaijima is a cotton striped fabric that has been woven in Yanai City, Yamaguchi Prefecture since the Edo period. It developed under the encouragement of the feudal domain and was widely used as clothing and work clothes for common people. The striped patterns, woven with indigo-dyed threads, vary from thin to thick stripes and are characterized by their durability and pleasant texture. Although it declined after the Meiji era with the rise of Western clothing, in recent years it has been revived by local volunteers and is being used in new forms such as daily necessities, accessories, and interior decorations. It is cherished as a simple and warm textile.
Yamaguchi Prefecture [Kuga-shuku]
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Kuga Chijimi is a type of crepe cotton fabric that has been woven in and around Kuga-cho, Iwakuni City, Yamaguchi Prefecture since the Edo period. It is woven using tightly twisted threads and then treated with hot water to create a fine crepe texture, resulting in a smooth feel and excellent breathability. Many of the fabrics feature indigo-dyed stripes and checkered patterns, and its light and cool feel made it a favorite among ordinary people as summer kimono and underwear. Although it declined after the Meiji era, restoration and preservation efforts have been made as a regional traditional craft, and its coolness and simple texture are being re-evaluated.
Cooperation: Kuga Chijimi Textile Association
Fukuoka Prefecture [Hakata-ori textile]
Hakata-ori is a type of silk fabric produced primarily in Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City, with a history of approximately 770 years. Based on techniques introduced from China, it is characterized by its durable and firm texture, and is particularly highly valued as obi (sash) fabric. A representative pattern is the "Kenjo pattern," which features stripes and dokko (vajira) and hanazara (flower plate) motifs, all inspired by Buddhist and military implements. Because it is easy to tie and does not easily loosen, it was presented as a gift to the Shogun's family during the Edo period and came to be known as "Hakata Kenjo." Even today, traditional techniques are preserved while new designs and products are being created.
Fukuoka Prefecture [Kokura Weaving]
Kokura-ori is a cotton textile that originated in Kokura, Kitakyushu City, Fukuoka Prefecture, during the early Edo period. It is characterized by its durable yet supple texture and beautiful vertical stripe pattern, achieved through high-density warp thread weaving. Widely used as fabric for samurai hakama (trousers), its deep indigo and brown hues were considered stylish. Although it disappeared for a time during the Meiji period, it was revived in the late Showa period, and now features colorful, modern designs. It is widely used for obi (sashes), bags, and interior decor. It is cherished as a textile that blends tradition and modern sensibilities.
Cooperative weavers Buzen Kokura Textile Research Association (General Incorporated Association)
Fukuoka Prefecture [Kurume Kasuri]
Kurume Kasuri is a representative Japanese ikat textile produced mainly in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture, and is said to have been created about 200 years ago by Inoue Den. By tying the threads to resist dyeing them first, then dyeing them with indigo and weaving them, simple and warm patterns are created. Made of durable cotton, it becomes softer and more comfortable with each wear, and spread among ordinary people as everyday wear and work clothes. There are a variety of patterns, including geometric patterns and floral patterns, and even today, artisans continue to produce it by hand, using it for clothing, accessories, and interior decoration.
Oita Prefecture [Bungo Shibori]
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Bungo Shibori is a tie-dyeing technique that has been passed down in the Bungo region of Oita Prefecture since the Edo period. By resist-dyeing the fabric using methods such as tying with thread, sewing tightly, or sandwiching it between boards, and then dyeing it primarily with indigo, unique patterns are created. The patterns range from simple and powerful designs to delicate motifs, and it was popular for everyday textile products such as yukata, tenugui (hand towels), and furoshiki (wrapping cloths). It declined for a time with the rise of Western clothing after the Meiji era, but in recent years, it has been revived by local artisans and enthusiasts, and the traditional indigo color and the warmth of handcrafted work are being re-evaluated.
Cooperating weaver: Bungo Yusoukai
Saga Prefecture [Kashima Nishiki]
Kashima Nishiki is an extremely intricate hand-woven silk fabric from Kashima City, Saga Prefecture, which developed from the hand-weaving techniques of samurai women in the late Edo period. Using gold, silver, and colored threads, it expresses delicate patterns that are closer to embroidery than weaving. It has a lustrous sheen, and the patterns are diverse, including auspicious motifs and flowers and birds, possessing a beauty like that of jewels. Currently, it is not used as kimono fabric, but is made into business card holders, small items, and accessories, and is highly valued as a gift and craft item. The traditional techniques are passed down by a limited number of artisans.
Cooperating weaver: Kashima Nishiki Preservation Society
Nagasaki Prefecture [Shimabara Cotton]
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The "Shimabara cotton" fabric, with its vertical stripe pattern based on indigo blue, is derived from records remaining in the region.
It is said to be a textile with a history of over 400 years, and is actively produced in the northern part of the Shimabara Peninsula in Nagasaki Prefecture.
It was a woven fabric. Later, during World War II, it was used for metal requisitioning, etc.
Although the technique was lost, in 1987, when the Historical and Folk Museum was completed...
The momentum for its revival is growing, and the faint remaining weaving experience and memories of the local elderly are being preserved.
We were able to successfully restore it to its original state.
Currently, the Shimabara Cotton Weaving Preservation Society is working to pass on the revived cotton weaving to the next generation.
I work every day, carefully considering each individual thread.
"The path of humanity and the path of cotton must not be mistaken for even a single one," as our ancestors said.
I will never forget this, and I will continue on the path of weaving, while being grateful for the 100-year-old looms and tools.
I think so.
Cooperating weaver: Shimabara Cotton Preservation Society
Kumamoto Prefecture [Amakusa Sarasa]
"Sarasa" refers to patterned fabrics imported from overseas. Amakusa Sarasa is believed to have been introduced to Japan during the Azuchi-Momoyama period by Westerners through Dejima in Nagasaki, bringing with it sarasa from Europe, the Middle East, and India. Later, during the Edo period, it was produced by artisans who had mastered the techniques of imitating imported sarasa, and it became a fabric beloved by ordinary people. Amakusa Sarasa had disappeared several times due to a lack of successors, but in modern times, the current dye house, Isuzu Nakamura, who was originally a dyer and weaver, received requests for its revival from the mayor and the cultural association. Furthermore, thanks to the generous donation of materials collected by local historians and others, the revival project was undertaken once again. As a result, it was revived again in 2002 as "Heisei Amakusa Sarasa."
Miyazaki Prefecture [Aya Handwoven Silk]
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Aya no Tetsumugi is a hand-woven silk fabric produced in Aya Town, Miyazaki Prefecture. It was revived in the 1960s by local volunteers who integrated the entire production process from sericulture to weaving. The yarn is spun by hand, dyed with plant dyes, and carefully woven on a handloom, resulting in a soft and warm texture. The natural colors from the plant dyes and the simple, gentle luster are unique to each piece, and it becomes more familiar the longer it is used. In addition to bolts of fabric and obi sashes, it is also used for clothing and accessories, and is cherished as a craft that complements modern life.
Kagoshima Prefecture [Authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi Silk Fabric]
Oshima Tsumugi, a traditional textile representing Kagoshima Prefecture, boasts a long history and tradition. The Oshima Tsumugi weaving process involves over 30 steps, taking nearly six months from design to completion. Each step is extremely complex and requires highly skilled techniques. Throughout its long history, product and technological developments have progressed, resulting in numerous praised features such as intricate ikat patterns, lightness, warmth, suppleness, and resistance to wrinkling. Currently, Oshima Tsumugi offers a rich variety of colors, patterns, and textures, ranging from traditional mud-dyed Oshima and indigo-dyed Oshima to new colored and white Oshima. As a result, its range of wear has expanded, and it can now be worn not only as casual fashionable wear for outings, but also for various occasions such as tea ceremonies, coming-of-age ceremonies, and weddings. And now, the commercialization of Oshima Tsumugi products as Western-style clothing, interior goods, and accessories is progressing again, and with world-renowned designer Hanae Mori presenting an Oshima Tsumugi women's suit at Paris Fashion Week, Oshima Tsumugi is once again gaining attention in the field of Western-style clothing.
Okinawa Prefecture [Shuri Weaving]
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Shuri-ori is a general term for traditional textiles passed down in the Shuri district of Naha City, Okinawa Prefecture, and developed under the protection of the Ryukyu Kingdom during the Ryukyu Kingdom era. It encompasses a variety of techniques, including Hanakura-ori, Doton-ori, and Hana-ori, and uses silk and ramie threads to weave vibrant colors and elegant patterns. It was once used for the clothing of royalty and samurai, and is called the "jewel of textiles" for its delicacy and grace. Even today, artisans continue to preserve traditional techniques while creating new works such as obi sashes and accessories.
Cooperating weaver: Naha Traditional Textile Business Cooperative
Okinawa Prefecture [Chibana Hanaori ]
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Chibana Hanaori is a silk textile originating from the Chibana district of Okinawa City, Okinawa Prefecture. It utilizes the "Hanaori" technique, which involves floating some of the weft threads to create patterns. Originating around 600 years ago during the Ryukyu Kingdom era, it was used for formal attire by royalty and samurai. Its geometric and vibrant patterns possess a tropical elegance reminiscent of Bingata textiles. Although it temporarily ceased production after World War II, it was revived by local weavers and is now used to create obi sashes, kimonos, and accessories. It is highly regarded as a delicate and dignified textile that Okinawa is proud of.
Okinawa Prefecture [Haebaru Hanaori]
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Haebaru Hanaori is a type of silk weaving originating in Haebaru Town, Shimajiri District, Okinawa Prefecture. It is characterized by the "Hanaori" technique, which involves partially floating the weft threads to create patterns. Its origins date back approximately 600 years to the Ryukyu Kingdom era, when it was used for the clothing of royalty and samurai. The geometric and delicate patterns and vibrant colors create a splendid atmosphere typical of the tropics. Although it declined temporarily after World War II, local weavers and preservation societies have worked hard to revive it, and it is now produced and sold as obi sashes, kimonos, and accessories. It is a textile that conveys tradition and beauty to the present day.
Cooperating weaver: Handweaving Studio Ohshiro
Okinawa Prefecture [Bingata]
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Bingata is a traditional Okinawan stencil dyeing technique characterized by its vibrant colors and bold designs. Its origins date back to the 14th-15th centuries during the Ryukyu Kingdom era, where it developed under the influence of dyeing cultures from China, Southeast Asia, and mainland Japan. Patterns are drawn onto fabric using stencils and resist paste, and then multiple colors such as red, blue, and yellow are layered and applied. Many designs feature tropical motifs such as plants, animals, and geometric patterns, and it was used as formal attire for royalty and samurai. Even today, artisans continue to create a wide range of works, including kimonos, obi sashes, framed artwork, and other goods.
Collaborating weaver and Bingata artist Yuka Aragaki
Okinawa Prefecture [Yomitan Hanaori]
Yomitan-son Hanaori is a traditional silk weaving technique from Yomitan Village, Nakagami District, Okinawa Prefecture. It utilizes the Hanaori technique, which involves partially floating the weft threads to create patterns. Its origins date back approximately 600 years to the Ryukyu Kingdom era, when it was highly valued as formal attire for royalty and samurai. It is characterized by geometric patterns woven with red, yellow, and green threads against a subdued background. After World War II, it temporarily ceased production, but was revived through the efforts of local weavers and preservation societies. Currently, it is produced as obi sashes, kimonos, and accessories, continuing to pass on Okinawa's weaving culture to the present day.
Okinawa Prefecture [Lawton Weave]
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Roton-ori is a type of silk fabric woven in Okinawa Prefecture, and its name comes from the combination of the techniques of ro-ori (a type of sheer silk weaving) and tonbo-hanaori (dragonfly flower weaving). By adding hanaori, which creates patterns by floating the weft threads, to ro-ori, which creates a sheer effect by partially removing the warp threads, a fabric is created that is both cool and elegant. During the Ryukyu Kingdom era, it was highly valued as summer formal wear and obi fabric, and was especially used for the attire of samurai and royalty. Even today, the traditional techniques are passed down in Shuri and Yomitan, and it remains popular as summer obi and kimono fabric.
Cooperating weaver: Shion Weaving Studio
